“At our first camp where Virginia Falls roared and churned up a misty zephyr, excitement fizzed in my chest…”
- Let’s start from the beginning. Before you embarked on your trip, were there any aspects of the Nahanni, or the North more generally, that you were particularly excited about or intrigued by?
As a neophilic human, I’m always seeking out new adventures and destinations that light up my most feral sense of self. While I have done lots of backpacking and hiking trips, I have never been on a multi day raft trip nor ever tried packrafting! Spending multiple days in the backcountry, where I’d get to sleep in a tent, see wildlife and geological marvels, and float down a river through Nahanni National Park Reserve seemed like the perfect experience for me! Spoiler: I was right!
- Was there anything you were nervous about before your expedition?
I was truly stoked about getting to move through the outdoors slower and with more intention. I knew that once we left Fort Simpson, we would be out in the wild, without cell connectivity and the ability to answer incessant emails. Being in quiet spaces, without throngs of tourists and noisy sightseers, is how I enjoy nature best.
The only thing that made me a bit nervous initially was the thought of spending copious amounts of time in a raft with strangers, without the ability to leave. As an introvert, I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to have my own space and that I would be “stuck” with the group. What if there were folks who were obnoxious or talked incessantly? My fears were quickly allayed however; we swapped rafts throughout the experience to ride with different guides and guests, and the group was fantastic. Plus, there were plenty of opportunities while at camp to find some alone time for introspection and repose.
- Can you describe what it was like flying into the Nahanni and catching a glimpse of the river for the first time? And stepping off the plane at the float dock?
The buzzing energy in the float plane was truly one for the books. Everyone was so excited to start the adventure and the views were incredible! When the pilots waved goodbye and flew off, leaving us at our first camp where Virginia Falls roared and churned up a misty zephyr, excitement fizzed in my chest. Leaving all of the logistics, cooking, and cleaning to the guides was truly a gift. I was able to release all control and just enjoy revelling in the outdoors.
Photo credit to Wendy Altschuler.
- What was your favourite part of river living?
Getting to enjoy wild places and quiet spaces, where bears, bison, beavers, Dall sheep, eagles, and other captivating creatures roam, was such a treat. I’ll never forget the feeling of being in such a remote locale, far away from traffic, light pollution, and the clutter of urban societies.
Nahanni National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is full of not only diverse landforms that have taken millions of years to form, but also, stories of murder and deceit, giving the park monikers like Deadmen Valley, Headless Creek, and Funeral Range. I loved reading R.M. Patterson’s The Dangerous River: Adventure on the Nahanni and then imagining some of the scenes come to life as I was traveling through the same untamed landscapes.
- How does river travel differ from other active adventures you have been on?
Each campsite by the river, the rugged “highway” where the next day’s adventures would begin. River travel can be a lot of work—schelpping everything on and off the rafts each day so you can have a nice camp, tent to sleep in, and plenty of food. That said, there were many luxuries on this journey that you wouldn’t have if you were backpacking; a fully equipped kitchen, coolers of food and even a portable toilet, for example.
Being fully and authentically immersed in nature, however, without any other people outside of your group, where your time is your own, was truly the best luxury. On this trip, one man whittled a spoon from a chunk of wood, another guy chilled his beers right in the river. I swam multiple times in the ice-cold water, which made me feel pin-prickly alive. We saw a bear from the raft and one at camp. This was undoubtedly a once-in-a-lifetime romp in the natural world, a far-removed locale that few get to see and experience. Traveling here feels like you’re privy to a secret.
Photo credit to Wendy Altschuler.
- How did you find the level of activity, such as hiking as packrafting?
This experience is fantastic for multigenerational families! On my trip, there was a family with three generations. Imagine floating down a river in the NWT with your dad and your grandpa!
No matter what your age, you can find something that lights you up on this expedition. Even though the guides did the heavy lifting, I felt blissfully sapped and ready to crash at the end of each day.
- How was your experience joining this expedition as a solo traveller?
Traveling solo is a fantastic way to test your mettle and learn about the world around you in a more connected and open way. If there’s something you want to do, an adventure you want to have, I say go for it! You don’t have to wait for someone to go with—going solo is better than not going at all. Plus, the advantage is that you’ll make new friends and experience something that will make you feel wild and free! I met a woman on this trip, the only other female, who I still consider a friend today—we reach out to each other on a regular basis and still laugh about how crazy it was to “bump” into a bear while following tracks!
Photo credit to Wendy Altschuler.
- You have a wide experience in travel and travel journalism. Can you put into words what makes Canada’s North such a special place to visit?
As a seasoned and intrepid travel writer, I have ventured all across the planet in search of newfangled adventures. I’ve backpacked in the Grand Canyon from rim to rim; I hiked through Italy, France, and Switzerland on the Tour du Mont Blanc; and I dragged my three sons up and over the high sierras for 70 miles of the John Muir Trail. I’ve written stories about paragliding, skydiving, cliff jumping, paramotoring, rappelling off buildings and mountains, and swimming with whale sharks, humpback whales, and manta rays.
Through all of my travels, which includes wayfaring in nearly 60 countries and 30 US national parks, I can confidently say that the best trips are the ones where you feel most alive. For me, moving my body outdoors is where I feel the happiest and most like myself. Rafting in Northwest Territories through Canada’s deepest canyons on the Nahanni River, past layers of ancient rock and varied ecosystems, made me feel tiny, vulnerable and exposed, while at the same time powerful and like I was born under a lucky star.
You can find Wendy’s articles on her Nahanni adventure for Forbes magazine on our In the News page.
