Whitehorse: a brief guide to the Wilderness City

Many past guests will know Whitehorse as the start and end point to their journeys along the Tatshenshini or Alsek Rivers with us, or the beginnings of one of our world-class canoe journeys. It is the place where the excitement builds as rain jackets and dry suits are pulled on for the first time, maps poured over and itineraries discussed; and the place where we return to, cloaked in the aromas of woodsmoke, alpine meadows and coastal breezes. With faces glowing with the stories which can only come from a journey through exquisite northern wilderness under the midnight sun!

Paddlers on our Nahanni Headwaters expeditions
Paddlers on our Nahanni Headwaters expeditions enjoy views of the NWT's highest mountains.
Source: NRA

Located on the Traditional Territory of the Ta’an Kwӓch’ӓn Council and Kwanlin Dün First Nation, the Yukon’s capital is fondly – and aptly – known as the Wilderness City. It is well worth spending a few extra days discovering Whitehorse and its surroundings before or after your river journey. This post will highlight a small handful of the delights – culinary, cultural and natural – that this wild city has to offer.

Sunrise over downtown Whitehorse. The mountains and Northern sun give a touch of magic to even a parking lot!
Sunrise over downtown Whitehorse. The mountains and Northern sun give a touch of magic to even a parking lot!
Source: Katy personal photo

History

Boasting a vibrant history, Whitehorse has sprung up from an intricate patchwork of Indigenous culture and modern settler influences. For those inclined to take a dive into Whitehorse’s past, there are several excellent museums worth a visit.

As well as being an informative resource on the Yukon’s Indigenous history, the KDCC is a testament to the vibrant First Nations cultures in Whitehorse. With several interesting exhibits, the KDCC also frequently hosts events from artistic markets to music shows, so it’s worth checking out their calendar whilst you’re in town.

Stepping into this museum is like stepping back in time. With 3-dimensional displays of the prehistoric animals, geology and early human settlements, visitors to the Beringia Interpretive Centre are absorbed into the ancient past of Beringia (the land bridge which used to connect northwestern Canada and Alaska with the easternmost boundary of Russia). Check out their events page; there are frequent evening talks from local and visiting experts on current conservation projects, history and other topics.

One of the oldest buildings in Whitehorse still standing in its original location, the Old Log Church Museum originally served as a place of worship for contractors working along the Alaska Highway. It now stands as a testament to the important role the Church has played in sewing the patchwork that is the Yukon’s history, and displays an array of exhibits.

Old Log Church Museum
Old Log Church Museum.
Source: National Trust for Canada

Art

Art is an integral part of any culture, and the North is no different. Whitehorse is home to many talented artists, whose work you can buy in town to remember your trip North when you return home.

Hiking

For those wanting to eek out every last minute of adventure under the Midnight Sun, Whitehorse has some fantastic local hiking options. Miles Canyon offers superb views over an enchanting canyon on the Yukon River. The easy going trails are perfect for stretching travel weary legs and on a sunny day the waters shine a brilliant emerald green.

If you are seeking a more energetic hike, Grey Mountain offers a panoramic vista of the river valley where Whitehorse is situated. Topping out at 1,400 metres, the views stretch from Marsh Lake in the south to Lake Laberge in the north. Though the summit trail is relatively short (5km), there is a well-maintained trail network which will keep you entertained for as many hours as you wish.

For those with a vehicle, Fish Lake, originally named Łu Zil Män in Southern Tutchone after the whitefish which spawn every fall, is an excellent hike located 20 minutes out of town. The lake itself is beautiful, but for those wanting to go further, a 90 minute hike up a forested trail will take you onto an alpine ridge with panoramic views of the Ibex Valley beyond. This local area plan provides an excellent insight into the history and present day connections with the area.

The town of Carcross is located 40 minutes from Whitehorse and offers a variety of options to explore, from leisurely ambles to more challenging hikes. Nares Mountain, Caribou Mountain and Paddy Peak are all hikes rewarded with stunning vistas of the Southern Lakes region.

For those interested in geology, Carcross Desert is worth a stop. Formed by silt leftover from dried up glacial lakes, the Desert is an interesting geological phenomenon home to several rare plant species including the Baikal Sedge, a surviving relic from the Beringian era.

The Sam McGee trail is a shorter hike, originally built as a tramway in 1905 for a silver mining operation. To really make this piece of Klondike history come alive, read The Cremation of Sam McGee by Yukon poet Robert Service before beginning!

Yukonhiking.ca provides comprehensive guides (including maps and driving directions) of the Yukon’s boundless hiking opportunities.

Fish Lake in Fall
Fish Lake with the first touches of fall colours on the trees.
Source: Yukon News

The Yukon Wildlife Preserve provides a further opportunity to better acquaint yourself with northern ecology. Though our Tatshenshini and Alsek River expeditions are known for their exquisite wildlife viewing opportunities, the preserve is home to several species found further north in the Yukon including Muskox, Woodland Caribou and the Arctic Fox. Visitors have the chance to see iconic northern species whilst enjoying a 5km trail around the preserve.

Eating & Drinking

To fuel up for a day’s exploration, Baked Cafe, Bullet Hole Bagels and Java Connection all offer great coffee and brunch food in town. For northern artisan roasteries, Midnight Sun Coffee Roasters is an excellent option for caffeine fanatics! Bean North is located just North of town and is the perfect pit stop for those headed for Takhini Hot Springs, or the Wildlife Preserve.

Whitehorse also boasts some fantastic brewing for those wanting to quench their thirst with some local produce. Winterlong and Woodcutter’s (one of Canada’s 100 Best Bars) are two excellent breweries with an array of locally crafted ales, stouts and lagers to suit every taste and Yukon Brewing and Two Brewers Distilling have some excellent craft beer and whisky too! Both have typically laid-back atmospheres and tasty menus to accommodate any cravings that come with the tasting.

Yukon Berry Farm is situated just north of town and produces excellent fruit wines and ciders from locally harvested apples and haskap berries. Worth a visit for any connoisseurs wanting to expand their repertoire of northern delicacies.

Belly of the Bison is a great option where you can sample bison and seafood from just across the border in Alaska. Klondike Rib & Steak was originally opened as a bakery in 1900 and offers a slice of Klondike history whilst you feast!

For international cuisines. La Cara and Sanchez Cantina will take you to southern climes for some Mexican cuisine. Virsa Indian Cuisine and Golden Sakura Sushi offer excellent, eclectic eats!

To delve deeper into the creative local culinary culture, Fireweed Market is open all summer and even offers live music at Shipyard’s Park. You can find everything from artisan granola, to homemade baked goods to food truck style meals.

Haskap Wine
Source: Yukon Berry Farms

Day Trips

Haines Junction

While guests on our Tatshenshini and Alsek rafting trips will pass through Haines Junction en route to the river, the village is well worth a trip in itself. Situated around 2 hours’ drive from Whitehorse with an impressive backdrop of the Auriol Mountains, Haines Junction makes both the perfect day trip from Whitehorse or a springboard for longer forays into Kluane National Park, Canada’s westernmost national park.

The Da Kų Cultural Centre provides a fascinating insight into the geological, natural and cultural history of Kluane Country. Pick up a map to explore some of the trails on offer, from the serene Dezadeash River Trail (perfect for an afternoon wander) to towering peaks of King’s Throne or Decoeli, to the multi-day Cottonwood or Donjek Routes for the hardy backpacker.

The Village Bakery offers excellent pastries and lunches, which can be enjoyed on its open air patio. If you pass through on a Friday or Saturday night, you’ll be able to catch some live music from local artists at Jam at the Junction.

For a chance to view Kluane from above – including Canada’s tallest mountain, Mount Logan! – Icefield Discovery offer breathtaking flightseeing tours. They are located just past Haines Junction on the shores of beautiful Kluane Lake, in Silver City.

If you’re topping up on gas, Top Spot gas station is highly recommended for their homemade baked goods and espresso bar (the walnut sticky buns are a personal favourite!).

Haines, AK

If you were to continue on through the Haines Pass, you would arrive at Haines, Alaska (about 5 hours from Whitehorse). Known for its stunning mountain backdrop, Haines offers a glimpse into quintessential coastal Alaskan life. Fogcutter and Haines Brewing are great for atmosphere and locally brewed beverages, while Three Northmen offer an eclectic mix of meads and ciders for those wishing to sample something a little different.

There are several shops and boutiques in downtown for those wanting to buy some souvenirs or artwork, whilst numerous artists’ work can be found in the many galleries around town.

For those wishing to soak up more mountain views, Haines has a series of excellent trails varying in length and height. Battery Point trail is a beautiful hike with little elevation gain, whilst Mount Riley and Mount Ripinsky offer longer endurance challenges, rewarded of course with jaw-dropping vistas.

Exhausted from all this adventure?!

Perhaps one for after returning from river, the Takhini Hot Springs are located on the traditional territory of the Ta’an Kwӓch’ӓn Council and have been used for centuries. Today, visitors can enjoy a variety of thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms, and even an outdoor shower to cool off whilst soaking up stunning mountain views! A soak in the springs is the perfect way to relax, reflect and round off your wilderness river journey…and maybe even plan the next one!

NRA Cheers!
Toasting memories made in the North!
Source: NRA

Interested in learning more?

Whether you journey to experience abundant wildlife, verdant wildflowers or glacial vistas, our journeys are sure to exceed your expectations.

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