At the end of the operating season, Dana and I were both in the South Nahanni watershed though heading different directions. She would experience the late-season autumnal glory in the Canyons leading our last raft expedition through an incredible contrast of boreal colour against the Nahanni’s grey limestone and dolomite walls. With nights of aurora in store and a stunning display in Deadmen Valley, I was right to be envious of her expedition but I had one of my own in the works.